Monday, September 23, 2013

Project Run and Play Sew Along: Mad for Plaid

Vintage wool suit
Click on the photos to view them larger.

Well, I did it. I cut into the beautiful plaid wool. Thanks to everyone for the encouragement on the last post.  It was so wonderful to sew with! It seems I'm mildly allergic to wool; my arms have a little rash on them. It's completely worth it, though.

Instagram photos are full size.

This week's Project Run and Play theme is Mad for Plaid.  I happened to have some lovely wool yardage calling my name.  Serendipitous?  I think so.  This week, I went all out and made a four piece outfit.  There is a jacket, a shirt, a skirt with suspenders and a matching cap.  I also got a crash course in working with vintage patterns.  I'm also going to add that I made most of this on the weekend.  Why?  Probably because I'm a sucker for punishment.


Vintage wool suit

Vintage wool suit


Unlike the previous vintage pattern I sewed, this pattern had very minimal instructions.  The pattern was also much more detailed.  Between the lack or directions and the odd shaped pattern pieces, I had a lot of fiddling to do.  The pattern pieces had holes in them for markings (all different sizes) which I had to mark and then match up later.  Once I figured out which hole was for what part, it all made sense but it was a long process.  My muslin had many strangely placed darts and I might have dulled my seam ripper.

Everything you need to know about installing a lining.
A text message conversation with my wonderful aunt and, suddenly, everything fell into place.  The other pieces had fewer holes and starting with those helped me understand what all of this meant.  There are 4 holes to indicate darts, 4 holes for pocket placement, holes for seam allowance, collar placement AND where to cut for the lining (this was the one that really had me stumped).  If you break it down, it's really not as scary as it looks.


Through this process, I made my first lined jacket and my first darts.  In my opinion, the darts look perfect, but I think the wool's forgiveness has a lot to do with that.   I also learned a few things about construction that I plan to use later in pattern drafting, like the clever way they made the lapel.
Vintage wool suit


The skirt is interesting.  It has snaps to hold closed the opening on the side and it called for a hook and eye closure but I chose to use a larger snap for ease of getting off and on.  The directions merely said "face opening and sew on snaps" with a drawing so I pretty much had to wing it and, as it turns out, I sewed my facing on backward but I'm just gonna go with it.  Before I realized what I'd done, the seam allowance had already been trimmed and I was pretty much out of fabric.

One thing I love about vintage patterns is how they are made to grow with children.  This pattern has suspenders to hold the skirt up and the waist is just a bit too big.  The suspenders hold the skirt up high so that it the silhouette is right.  As my daughter grows, I can remove the suspenders and have her wear the skirt as is.  It will fit at her natural waist and hit right about the knee.  The jacket is on the short side but will probably last her two seasons since the arms are long.

Vintage wool suit
With suspenders, it fits much shorter.
Vintage wool suit


Vintage wool suit
It's longer without the suspenders and barely stays on right now!

Vintage wool suit
Detail shot of the waistband.

One of my favorite things is that this pattern calls for gathers at the elbow.  It's subtle but darling. 
 It add just a touch of extra fullness to the sleeve and makes it easier to move in.  It just really tickles me for some reason, probably because it's something that would have never occurred to me.  I managed to miss taking a photo of it somehow.

The shirt is not a vintage pattern, it's a shirt from Lily Bird Studio which I've had for ages and only just got around to sewing up.  I lengthened the sleeve for more coverage and lengthened the hem as well so that she could wear it for two years along with the skirt.  I like the little ruffle detail at the neck but I flipped it and sewed it downward instead of leaving it up as shown in the instructions.  It's a simple silhouette but has just enough little details to make it special.  I didn't want something that would overwhelm the suit or the plaid so I stuck with a solid color and a simple shape.

Vintage wool suit
I love the ruffle neckline and the gathered sleeves.

Vintage wool suit
Sweet, gathered back yoke.

I took some photos indoors because it looked like it was going to rain, but I managed to get out and go to the park when the rain let up.  I much prefer outdoor photos.

Vintage wool suit

Vintage wool suit

Vintage wool suit

Vintage wool suit

Vintage wool suit

Vintage wool suit



A little 40's shoulder pad love

30 comments:

  1. So darling. I like the whole outfit especially the pink shirt. Great job. Love the pictures with all the beautiful leaves!

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  2. I love everything about this outfit! Great Job. And your photo shoot is superb.
    with love,
    -Jo

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  3. I really like the skirt with the suspenders. I haven't seen that style, yet I find it quite charming. Beautiful pictures. Our leaves have not started to fall yet. It is just a matter of time though.
    Deborah
    http://sewmuchtogive.blogspot.com

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  4. Oh melt my heart! This is such a beautiful outfit!
    You did a great job!
    ~Michelle

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  5. How awesome...I love the suspender/skirt look!

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  6. Absolutely lovely!
    I wish I could find vintage patterns here in Portugal...

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  7. Absolutely stunning! I loved getting sneak peaks on IG before your complete post was up!! Your photography is amazing, the vintage outfit is darling, and your little girl is beautiful...

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    1. I'm glad someone likes them. My family keeps teasing me about my instagram usage!

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  8. I am in love with that little skirt! Totally worth cutting into your fabric!

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  9. This is one of the most beautiful things I've seen in blogland! Your photography with all the fall leaves just goes perfect with this outfit! Amazing! I'd say you're up for winning this week. (Btw. I'm starting a weekly series with features from the sewing posts of the last week that I liked most. Would love to include this post. Would it be ok if I grabed a pic from your blog - obviously to link back to your blog?)

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  10. Wow! From beautiful details to beautiful photographs, this is a great vintage look.

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  11. So far, this is my favorite plain outfit. Great sewing, fabric & the look is stunning. Your photos are wonderful too. The photo of your daughter with her little nose puckered up is so so sweet - it made me smile!
    http://xoxograndma.blogspot.com/

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  12. Oh what a perfect outfit for such a beautiful fall day! Very lovely!

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  13. This turned out awesome, now I want to go raid my vintage pattern stash :) Your pictures are seriously making me swoon, they are stunning. I really need to kick my photography up a notch myself so I have tons of admiration for both your sewing and your photography skills.

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  14. Such a cute outfit! I really like that pink undershirt& the suspenders are a lovely touch!

    Mae

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  15. SO pretty! I love the color and your photos are gorgeous!!! hey, I've started a sewing for kids group pinterest board! I would love for you to join... just shoot me an e-mail with your pinterest info if you are interested :o) I'm on pinterest at ntcreations.e-mail: nap-timecreations@hotmail.com

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  16. This is such a sweet outfit! You sound so comfortable with the vintage pattern--it would have freaked me out! Love the skirt/suspender combo and how the fit will last a while.

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  17. Lovely beautiful outfit! The photos and your model are gorgeous too!

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  18. Brilliant sewing! Such an involved little outfit and you nailed it perfectly. Of course the photos are awesome as always! :)

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  19. What an adorable outfit! Beautifully done. I love your photos too... just gorgeous.

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  20. Love this.
    That plaid is perfect for this look.

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  21. I just love the pictures! I think it was worth all the effort of fiddling! It's adorable!

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  22. I love this! Yours is defiantly my favorite.

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  23. Darling! And your photographs are wonderful to!

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  24. Wow! I am so super duper impressed!

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